A match from the mountains: to accompany Fabian Fuchs’ Alpine salmon, wine expert Britta Wiegelmann recommends a rediscovered grape variety from Valais.
Did you know that the world’s cleanest and most sustainable fish farm is in Switzerland? In Lostallo in the mountains of Graubünden, salmon are raised in an environment that has more akin with a spa: fresh mountain water, a pool with a current for the fish to swim around in as well as quiet zones for them to rest – no wonder the fish from Swiss Lachs taste so good. For his Alpine salmon recipe, Fabian Fuchs cooks the fish to a core temperature of just 35 degrees. The salmon remains almost raw on the inside and is served up unadulterated. And the wine to accompany it? Another gem from the mountains! I recommend a Petite Arvine. The grape is a bit of a diva. It demands the best locations, thank you very much, and wants plenty of pampering. This almost brought about its demise, but the ancient variety is now making a well-deserved comeback thanks to dedicated wine-growers. Its characteristics: notes of grapefruit, citrus and rhubarb, a fresh, sparkling acidity and a hint of salt at the finish, reminiscent of a grain of fleur de sel on the tongue. It could almost have been made to go with fish; especially fish from the Alps of course.