Wine expert Britta Wiegelmann’s monthly recommendation. Today: Silvio Germann’s marinated Arctic char – paired with dry sherry.
Do you know what escabeche is? It is the Spanish term for the vinegar and spice-based mixture that Spaniards traditionally use to marinate fish. Escabeche has long been used for its preserving qualities, because the acidity from the vinegar practically “cooks” the raw fish. The resultant flesh is incredibly tender and flavoursome, and almost melts on your tongue. However, it is very hard to find a wine that will stand up to so much acidity. But not impossible. The ideal accompaniment, manzanilla, also comes – surprise, surprise – from Spain. This bone-dry sherry, a speciality of the port city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, shows hints of nut, almond, herbs, fresh bread and sea breeze on the nose and has a salty character on the palate. As with all other dry sherries, its secret weapon is its light acidity. Hence it can even cope with vinegar marinade. Silvio Germann’s delicious Arctic char escabeche and a glass of manzanilla are a match made in heaven. But don’t pour your sherry into one of those thimble-shaped receptacles that your grandmother used in the 1950s. Use a normal wine glass instead and serve well chilled.