Chef Walter Klose and wine expert Britta Wiegelmann agree: sherry is the right accompaniment to sweetbreads.

Drink more sherry! I’ve been anticipating the revival of sherry culture for years now. Gin and vermouth have had their day, and now it’s high time to get this excellent wine from Andalusia – and one of the most underrated treasures of the wine world – back on the table. Wait a minute – on the table? That’s right. Sherry is not an old ladies’ drink to be sipped on the sofa in the afternoon. An incredibly complex wine, it can accompany a variety of dishes. With crispy herb-coated sweetbreads it’s a match made in heaven. The sweetbreads are creamy and slightly sweet; choose a medium-dry Oloroso or Amontillado and you will be amazed. Walter Klose, the recipe’s creator, has already forestalled me here, serving the sweetbreads in a jerez jus. And jerez is Spanish for – you’ve got it: sherry.

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