Wine expert Britta Wiegelmann’s monthly recommendation. Today: Franck Giovannini’s green asparagus royale – paired with sparkling perry.

Rosé is normally a fail-safe accompaniment to green asparagus. But there are exceptions to every rule. Such as Franck Giovannini’s green asparagus royale – a dish rich in cream and egg. Bubbles – champagne in particular – are the answer. (Champagne is always the answer.) But today I want to suggest a quirky variation on this theme: perry, a sparkling beverage that is made from pears in much the same way that cider is made from apples. Perry and asparagus royale make a surprisingly great combination. Eric Bordelet is a master of his craft in Normandy who has catapulted perry (or poiré) to unprecedented levels of quality, while Cidrerie du Vulcain in the canton of Fribourg is one of a number of producers that are currently reviving the perry-making tradition in Switzerland. A good perry is bottle-fermented like champagne – with an aromatic nose, delicate sweetness, a fine mousse, crystal-clear acidity, and less than five per cent alcohol. It will dance on the palate, cleansing it after every spoonful of royale that enters your mouth.

This website uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. privacy statement

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/